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3T-GTEU into a Corolla KE35.
If you have done a conversion not mentioned or if you have any other tips not mentioned and would like to contribute to this page please email me at daytonah@priv5.onet.pl and let me know what car you have put the engine in.
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The 3T-GTEU is a 1770cc, 4 cylinder, twin spark, twin cam turbo engine. With stock 7psi boost they produce 160 hp. With intake and exhaust mods it has around 170hp. The stock CT20 turbo has a limit of around 210hp, older version (1982) had a non water cooled CT20 turbo, while newer engines had a water cooled CT20. Injectors also limit the power to around 200hp. Both turbo and injectors need upgrading for more hp. Denso RED injectors as used in Mazda 13B Turbo engines fit and offer enough flow for ~300hp. Fitting a 3T-GTEU into a KE35 SR5 Corolla Coupe by Richard Mason Big things first -- engine mounts were custom made by an engineering shop in Auckland.. As the dude who did the wrenching had another KE35 with a 3TGTEU in it he pulled that motor out and had exact copies built. My car still uses the standard cross member (engine), but the gearbox one was also custom made. The front UJ from the Carina/Corona (whatever) was with the engine and box and this was grafted onto the tailshaft - which needed to be shortened a little.. Clutch needed to be converted from Cable pull to hydraulic push. You can go either way with this -- personally I'd of thought that it would be easier to alter the box to function with a cable but whatever.... Bigger radiator was fitted (mazda 626), Motor was without its Oil cooler, so an oil cooler from a Cordia turbo was bolted up. Rotary ones are great, but a little sparce where I am when I was looking. Engine feeding system required a major rethink -- new lines were run in both directions, and as such a return feed back into the fuel tank was made. I would advise getting that part done professionally - you don't want it to break or leak......... A efi fuel pump was bolted up -- and I would recomend a surge tank. Currently I can't run less than 1/3 full for fear of running it lean around corners as the fuel pressure drops. And then theres the wiring... You seem to have a good system sussed -- my options were a little limited either spend 3 grand to have an aftermarket one fitted and tuned or go with the standard one and shell out a few bickies to have the massive mess of a wiring loom sorted out. So in summary: Engine/Gearbox Mounts and gearbox cross member Tailshaft / UJ Convert clutch to hydraulic or gearbox to cable Oil Cooler / Radiator Fuel Pump and return lines to the tank About the only grief I have when I'm doin shit is that it has to be on stands to get at the Oil filter - if I get keen I'll buy a remote oil filter kit -- which allows the filter to be mounted in the air stream.... |
